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Montmartre: The Hill, its Staircases, its Magnificent Views
by Martin Loughlin
As with all the central parts of Paris,
Montmartre is well-served by public transport. You can catch several
different bus routes to and within the area, and the two most
convenient metro stations are Abbesses and Lamarck-Caulaincourt. An
alternative if you approach Montmartre from the south side is the funiculaire, or cable railway. This hundred year old railway runs every few minutes from the rue Foyatier
to the foot of the Sacre-Coeur. Metro tickets and passes are valid on
the funiculaire. The present design dates from 1991, when it was
decided the system needed a much-needed overhaul. Each of the two cars
can carry up to 60 people and the timing of the cars departure is
ingeniously controlled by a computer that senses when the car has a
full load of passengers.
But by far the best way to get around the
hilly neighborhood of Montmartre is by foot. A few minutes walk away
from the crowds of tourists and the fast food kiosks around the Place
du Tertre, you can still find charming streets and ivy-covered cottages
that haven't changed much since the 19 th century. Watch out for
traffic though – even in the narrower streets, French drivers
seem to drive faster than is necessary. If you really want to explore
the area, sooner or later you will have to use one of the famous escaliers
or steep staircases. In Montmartre, often the shortest distance between
two points is straight up or down the nearest staircase. These stone
staircases, which help give the area its character, have been captured
in paintings of the neighborhood, as well as by the famous photographer
Brassai. More recently, they are used in an exciting car chase in the
movie ‘The Bourne Identity'.
Some of the best – and free –
views over Paris are to be had from the streets and the staircases
towards the top of the butte. One of the best viewpoints of Paris
anywhere in the city is immediately in front of the Sacre-Coeur. You
have a sweeping view of the Square Willette with its wide
stairs and flower beds, and in the distance, the center of Paris with
views of up to 30 miles on a clear day. You can pick out almost every
famous monument in the jumble of gray buildings – Notre Dame, the
Pompidou Center, the Montparnasse Tower and the Eiffel Tower. This is a
particularly good place to gather as the sun is setting – there
are usually vendors and street musicians adding to the atmosphere.
While the best views are to be had from the streets in front of the Sacre Coeur and the Place du Tertre, if you wander away from the Place du Tertre towards the north side, you also get excellent views over Northern Paris. Check out the view from the top of rue du Mont-Cenis,
with its steep walls of apartment blocks on either side, and seemingly
endless views over the suburbs. Of course, you can pay – and
stand in line – to go up the Eiffel Tower, but for an equally
good view of Paris, with atmosphere to match, I would recommend
Montmartre.
www.ratp.fr for information on metro and buses in Paris.
www.montmartrenet.com is the official website for the area.
Copyright (c) 2007 - www.paris-hotel-by-district.com CH. All rights reserved.
 Read Martin Loughlin's feature on the history of Montmartre
Read Martin Loughlin's feature on the artists of Montmartre
Read Martin Loughlin's feature on the windmills and vineyard of Montmartre
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