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The Pantheon
by Ben Skirvin
Tucked neatly away on a café-lined square only blocks from the beautiful Jardin du Luxembourg, the Pantheon is an excellent alternative to the boring waits and vast size inseparably connected with Paris' most popular attractions.
Originally an abbey, the Pantheon was
violently secularized in 1789 and converted into a monument to the
French Revolution. The resulting interior is very gaudy. Large plaster
statues commemorating important events in the revolution, and huge
marble plaques listing the names of those who died serving Napoleon
seem out of place against the background of murals depicting the life
and martyrdom of Sainte Theresa. Even the beautifully painted central
dome has been tastelessly turned into a gigantic pendulum, effectively
obscuring much of the masterpiece.
However, the tactlessly redesigned main
level still holds several worthwhile distractions, including a memorial
to the famed fighter pilot and children's author Antoine de St. Exupéry (The Little Prince).
Those with a passion for medieval history will find the story of Sainte
Theresa's life fascinating, as it includes many of France's most
important ancient figures, such as Charlemagne and Roland.
However, the Pantheon's primary attraction
is underground. The crypt, arrived at from the main level via a modest
spiral staircase, has an appropriately somber atmosphere. Subdued
lighting and a slightly musty smell serve only to reinforce the weight
of the intellects interred only yards away. Here, a quiet reminder to
an inconsiderate tourist will earn a debt of gratitude from the many
Parisians who regularly visit the site to pay their respects to Victor
Hugo, Marie Curie, Voltaire, and many others.
Ironically, the monument so renowned for its
subterranean treasures is also an incredible platform for a marvelous
view of the entire city. Not itself an intrinsic part of the Paris
skyline, the Pantheon is sufficiently taller than the surrounding
building to allow visitors an unobstructed view of every major monument
in the city. The cupola can be reach by a tour which leaves every half
hour. Be warned, this tour is not for the faint of heart. With more
than 5,000 steps, and guides who often speak only French, the foreign
visitor may find himself worn out and confused.
What truly separates the Pantheon from many
of its grander companions is accessibility. Visitors can amble along at
their own pace, without feeling rushed, yet the whole building can be
thoroughly explored in a single afternoon.
So, if you find yourself in the awkward
position of having to decide between the Musée d'Orsay and the
Centre Pompidou, why not look at a third alternative.
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