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St Germain des Prés and Odeon: Heart of the Latin Quarter
by Zoie Clift
A walk across the charming Pont des Arts
(the Bridge of the Arts) will lead you to the left bank of the Seine
and directly to Saint-Germain or the Odeon districts. The pedestrian
bridge was built in the early 1800's and stakes claim to being the
first iron bridge in the city. Many benches line its length, giving
strollers a chance to rest, and enjoy a stunning view of the river and
its banks.
The area of St Germain des Prés is
probably best known for its reputation as a magnet for artists, as the
district was a bohemian hangout and center of intellectualism
after World War II. Now, the neighborhood is famous for its arty-fartsy
movie theaters, its street-side cafes and the influx of students from
the nearby universities, which adds to the already vibrant atmosphere
of the area.
At the center of the district lies the
church of St. Germain-des-Prés, the oldest church in the city.
King Childebert I originally ordered the church — whose name
means Saint Germain of the Fields — be built to house holy
relics. On the day of the church's consecration in 558 AD,
the king died. He is now buried inside its walls.
The landmark, which is located at 3 Place St. Germain-des-Prés,
has been rebuilt three times, seeing destruction in the face of the
Normands, the French Revolution, as well as when Baron Haussmann opened
the St. Germain Boulevard.
The interior presents a memorable gold and
blue starred ceiling as well as detailed frescos and mosaics lining the
archways. Note that in the second chapel of the church, a stone marks
the spot where philosopher Rene Descartes is buried.
The Church of St Germain is open every day
from 8:00 a.m. until 7:30 p.m and at its entrance, visitors can pick up
maps as well as brochures that contain further information about it.
After visiting the place, get a quick lunch or coffee boost from two nearby cafés (“Cafe Flore” and “ Les Deux Magots”) that were the haunts of artists and intellectuals such as Ernest Hemingway, Picasso, and Jean Paul Sartre.
Les Deux Magots is located on 170
blvd St. Germain, and is one of the most famous cafes in the city. The
place is named after two wooden statues of Chinese mandarins (one of
the definitions of “magots” in French is “chunky Eastern figurine, made from stone, jade, or porcelain”). It is open from 8a.m. to 2 a.m. every day except the second week of January.
The Café Flore is located at 172 blvd. St. Germain, and is open every day from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 a.m.
Whichever café you might choose, both
provide an optimum chance to sit down and relax for a few moments as
you plan the rest of the itinerary for the day.
Zoie Clift is a talented contributor to
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Read another one of Zoie's features on Saint-Germain des Prés
Read Zoie's feature on the Opera Garnier
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